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Journal
Saturday, 7-18-03 - Machu Picchu
I don't know how to describe this place other than amazing. I have thought
about visting this place since I was a little kid, and had wondered if
when I saw it in person, if I would be dissapointed. Well, I wasn't. It
was everything I thought it would be, truly a magical place.We got up
at the crack of dawn, freezing our asses off to catch the train here.
It was a nice ride through some beautiful countryside. We arrived at Aguas
Calientes around 11:00 am, and caught a bus for the last leg of the
trip, about 20 minutes up some winding roads to the entrance. We had planned
on doing the 2 day hike, but since we only have a week in Peru in total,
and since Paul is sick, we decided to bag it and take the train. It would
really have been pushing it for time if we hiked it and we would have
had no time to see Cusco. Oh well, guess I will have to make another trip
here someday.
You enter from above, from a place called the watchmans hut which, has
an incredible view of the ruins below. This is where most of the panoramic
shots of the ruins most people have seen are taken. You can then walk
down into the ruins and just explore all the little nooks and crannies.
It's divided up into different sectors, places where the people lived,
the temples, main plaza, etc. It's so amazing to think about how the Inca
built this place, perched up on this mountain top as it is, and easy to
see how it remained hidden for half a millenium.
Thursday, 7-17-03 - Cusco
Cusco has been a blast so far, I really like this place. It's a pretty
clean city, full of historic old colonial buildings, many built on the
ruins of Inca temples and palaces. The climate is pretty dry and very
cold. I am not sure how high up the city is, but I can really feel the
affects of the altitude, or soroche as its called here. The locals
drink coca tea, which is tea made of cocaine leafs, yes cocaine. Before
you get too excited, it's not like snorting the drug. It basically just
soothes the affects of high altitude, and it really seems to work. It's
served everywhere here, even our hotel room came with a little pot of
it brewing when we checked in.
Once you get accustomed to the altitude,
this is a great place to walk. Everything is pretty close to the center,
but I get winded walking up the hill to our hotel which is only a few
blocks away. There are all sorts of excellent restaurants everywhere.
You can't walk down the street without getting accosted by someone handing
out flyers for a free pisco sour with your meal. Every place we have eaten
so far has been excellent. Pisco sours are the national drink here, they
are sort of like a margarita only made from a local cane liquor called
"Pisco", lime juice, sugar, and egg whites. They are very tasty
and we got pretty slopped up off them our first night here. We had an
excellent dinner at a little place right off the main plaza which had
the best avocado salad I have ever had. It was so amazing that Heather
and I went back today for lunch and Heather coerced the chef into giving
her the recipe.
Yesterday we got up bright and early and took a tour of some of the ruins
that surround Cusco. There is an old Inca fortress called Sacsayhuaman
(prononced 'sexy-woh-mon'), which has an excellent view of the city of
Cusco. The lighting there was amazing, sort of an orange glow to everything,
like a fall afternoon. Tomorrow will be another early morning as we head
to Machu Picchu.
Tuesday, 7-15-03 - Lima
Paul and I have been in Lima 2 days now, seeing all the usual tourist
sites like the cathedral and presidential palace and several craft markets.
Lima is a HUGE city, kind of dirty and crowded. I am glad we are only
staying here a few days. Were staying in a nice place in the Miraflores
neighborhood, one of the newer and nicer areas of the city. It's near
the ocean and has lots of restaurants, shopping and tourist crap. Paul
has come down with a hellish cold, so he spent most of today laying low
in the hotel while I checked out yet another craft market. I am sucha
sucker for all the indigenous pottery and textiles. Its similar but slightly
different than the stuff in Ecuador and of course I have bought several
more bags of it. I got a very cool sweater today, made from baby alpaca
which is very soft, lightweight and warm, and only $12! Heather arrives
tonight and we leave at the crack of dawn tomorrow for Cusco.
Saturday, 7-12-03 - My Last Week of School
First of all, I have to address all of you who have commented on all my
spelling mistakes in this jouranl. Let me just tell you that time is money
here. I am a pretty fast typist, but my brain usually works faster than
my fingers. When I go into an internet cafe my goal is to type this up
quick as I can since I am being charged by the minute, I don't really
have time to catch every little mistake. Why not use spellcheck as many
of you have suggested? Well, because it's in Spanish and doesn't catch
English mistakes. I try to do a quick read through to catch the errors,
but as I said, time is money and I am in a hurry, so I don't catch them
all. I know it drives some of you to distraction, but this is a journal
not a formal essay, so you are just going to have to get over it. Ok,
now that I have that off my chest... This has been a very crazy week,
my last week of classes at La Academia. I am happy to be returning home
soon but sad to leave my host family and friends here in Ecuador. I spent
the week frantically trying to finish up loose ends at school, the school
website and finalizing my plans for Peru. I also had a near disaster,
my laptop crashed with all my pictures, schoolwork from my timein Ecuador
and the schools website. I of all people know the importance of backing
up my work, but like a fool I didn´t. The ironic part is that the night
I returned from the beach I thought about doing a backup as I uploaded
my latest photos, but I was tired and decided to put it off. I will NEVER
do that again. I have been sick to my stomache over the whole thing...
to lose all that stuff, but luckily my teacher Guido has a friend who
works in computers here in Quito and he was able to ´fix´ it so to speak,
so at least I can access and save all my work. When I get home I will
have to completely rebuild my hard drive, but at least all my photos are
safe, whew!
The teachers threw a little going away party for me yesterday and took
me out to lunch with all the other students to say goodbye. It was very
nice, but I felt bad as I was late frantically trying to fix my computer
and I had to run off immediately afterwards to help Guido with his website.
Paul arrived late last night, it was very nice to see a familiar face
but I was so tired I could hardly keep my eyes open. We spent all day
today walking around the city, visting the old colonial part of the town,
churches, the Panecillo and museuems. In the evening Elizabeth, one of
my teachers, gave us a night tour of the historical center with all the
old churches lit up. It was very beautiful and the first time I had seen
it. Tomorrow we leave for Peru and what should be a pretty busy week.
Sunday, 7-6-03 - Crucita
Its Sunday morning in Crucita, the girls just caught the bus back to Quito and I have the house
to myself for the rest of the day. My bus doesn't leave until 4:30 so I will pass the day working
on my tan and relaxing on the beach. This place is incredible, a great house right on the beach,
sleeping to the sound of the ocean every night. Crucita is a sleepy little fishing village about
half an hour north of Manta. There aren't many tourists here or much of nightlife, very layed back
and relaxing. Its very dry here, warm but not too hot because of the breeze from the ocean. I spent
the week here with 3 other students; Carmen, Heather, Grace and our teacher Fredy. The week went
by so fast and we had a great time. We studied in the mornings (kind of) and spent the afternoons with
various activiites.
There was a teacher from Puerto Viejo, Karen, who came each day and took us around in her car.
One day we went to Montecriste, home of the famous Panama Hat. They actually come from Ecuador
and were shipped to Panama during the construction of the canal, but everyone thinks they come from
Panama. There are dozens of shops in this town that make and sell the hats at a much lower cost than
you can buy them in Quito. We also visited a pottery shop where we watched a man make the traditional
form of pottery by hand, most of which are reproductions of pre-Colombian indigenous art. He made a
little indian figurine while we watched gave it to us as a souvenir. We decided to leave it here in
the beach house as a guradian. Another day we hiked about 2 hours up the beach to a national park
called The Boca, at the mouth of a river, but the highlight had to be our first day when we
all went parasailing, which was a total blast. Floating up over the beach and ocean, nothing but the
sound of the wind, incredible.
The rest of our time we spent walking along the beach, swimming in the ocean and relaxing. Friday was
the 4th of July and we had a little bbq to celebrate. We made hamburgers, hotdogs, potato and green
salad and lots of fruit, also a lot of cubre libres. We invited our teachers and the owners of the nearby
hostal where we ate all our meals. Typical for the 4th of July in Seattle, it rained in the morning
but it cleared up by the afternoon and we had a beautiful sunset.
Thursday, 6-28-03 - Mindo
Its hard to believe that its already the end of June and that I only have
2 more weeks of school here in Quito. 1 actually, because next week I
am going to the coast. The school has a house in Crucita right on the
beach, and I will spend the week with a few other students there. Although
we will have class in the mornings, we will still have a lot of time to
just relax and soak up some rays. I can't wait!
I´ve been very busy this week making my reservations for Peru and
frantically trying to finish the school's website. I should finish by
next week if I bring my laptop with me to the beach. It seems like there is
so much to do before I leave but I guess you never have time to do
everything.
Last week I spent the week in the rain forest, a place called Mindo
which was very relaxing and well, uhmm, wet. It was very beautiful with lots
of wildflowers, hummingbirds, and more butterflys than I've ever seen in
one place in my life. There were also a lot of mosquitos and I was eaten
alive. Here at the equator you can really feel the temperature change with
just a slight change in altitude. It was warm and very muggy, but not as much
as the Amazon was. I studied in the afternoons and had
activities in the mornings such as river rafting, visiting orchid and
butterfly farms, and hiking to waterfalls. It was just my teacher Sila
and myself, and I did a lot of relaxing. There really isn't much else to do
in Mindo, its a pretty small town and very quiet. It was nice to get out
of Quito and breathe fresh air and sleep to the sounds of the forest; crickets,
frogs and the sound of the river, Very nice. You can see the pictures in the thumbnails to the
right.
I got back to Quito Friday afternoon and went to Gringolandia with some of my fellow
students. I met Heather early at Papayanet and we hung out with some Ecuadorian guys she had met.
We had some beers and talked before meeting up with our classmates. It was
interesting listening to these guys talk as they are sort of Ecuarian homey's, using a lot of slang.
A lot different than the Spanish we study in class. We also found some tater tots, which was a nice
surprise since both Heather and I like them a lot. We had a good time.
Last weekend was the first day of summer, the summer solstice and there was a big celebration at
the equator with indigenous dancing and music. I went with the other Rotary scholars, Heather,
Grace and Becky, and we had a great time. During the solstice, the sun is directly overhead at
the Equator and you don't have a shadow. The rest of the weekend was pretty relaxing, just hanging
out in Quito.
Saturday, 6-15-03
So what's going on in Seattle anyway? Temps in the 90's, riots and car
bombs. Maybe I should stay here in quiet and safe little Quito for a while
longer. Well, between the car alarms, barking dogs and traffic Quito is
hardly quiet, but its never in the 90's and there haven't been any car
bombings. Ok, there have been some protests, but they are relatively peaceful.
The protesters treat the protests like a job, starting each morning around
9 and ending at 5 or 6. They gather near the University Central and block
traffic on Avenida America, one of the main streets running through the
city, while yelling and throwing rocks at the cops. The have been protesting
the fact that the teachers haven't been paid in months and the threat
of rising gas prices. The teachers only make about $170 a month here and
are asking for a $20 monthly raise. They finally may have reached an agreement
and the students should return to school on monday. The congress has taken
months to decide on a measly $20 increase in pay for the teachers but
decided in 15 minutes for a huge pay increase for themselves, amazing.
The other day I was eating lunch with some fellow students at a restaurant near the university
when all of a sudden our eyes and noses started burning and everyone started
running inside. The police were shooting tear gas into the protestors
and it was blowing right into the restauant. Uhmm-mmm, nothing like the
smell of tear gas while your eating a fruit salad. They quickly shut all
the doors and windows and we were locked in for about 20 minutes waiting
for the gas to pass. We had a good excuse for being late to class anyway.
Its been an interesting week. Between being tear gassed and my reaction
to the anti-malaria medicine. I hope I never have to take that crap again.
It made me really tired, have wierd dreams, and gave me a bad case
of diarrhea and upset stomache. I was supposed to continue taking it until
Friday but quit on Wed. as it was getting worse everyday. Thursday was
the worst but by Friday I was back to normal, just in time for a drunken
afternoon bbq with the professors on the terrace at school. The teachers
had a traditional Ecuadorian parrillada to celebrate the end of
the week and asked me and Eric, a new student from Tacoma, to help cook.
There was a lot of meat and even more cubre libres - rum and coke
with lime. By the time we left, we were all feeling very happy as they
say here. Eric and I met the other students at a Mexican restaurant where
we drank a few margaritas and then went to a party near the university.
There is a good group of students here now and we have a lot of fun together.
Vicki from Colorado, Becky from Pennsylvania, Grace from Florida and Heather
from Alabama, all Rotary scholars, Charles from Texas, Erin from D.C.
and Eric from Tacoma. We were the only gringos in this big party of Ecuadorians
were we danced and drank more rum and coke. At the end of the night we
all piled into a tiny cab and went home around 1:00 am, pretty early by
Ecuadorian standards. It was a lot of fun.
Saturday, 6-8-03 - My Trip to the Amazon
Yesterday I returned to Quito after spending the week in the jungle. It was part of my schools curriculum called the Anaconda Program. I went with another Rotary scholar, Jerry from LA and a big group of Lutheran college students from Wisconson. It was nice going with the group because we had our own private bus which was much more comfortable and faster than a regular bus, 5 hours instead of the usual 6 and a half. We had 4 hours of class in the mornings and spent the afternoons going on different excursions into the jungle. A nice change of pace from studying in Quito and a lot of fun. My only regret (other than all the mosquito bites), is that I didn't take more pictuers. It was pretty wet in the jungle, and since we were climbing up waterfalls and through mud and brush, I was scared of ruining my camera. So I don't have pictures of most of the excursions.
We arrived Saturday afternoon and spent our first two nights in some cabanas owned by an indigenous family way out in the jungle. It was pretty primitive, no electricity or hot water, but very cool. The family cooked all our meals and acted as guides into the jungle. After settling into our cabanas we went on a short hike into the jungle where Eduardo, the father showed us various plants and explained what the local people use them for. We ate some Cacau, the fruit that chocolate comes from. Its an orange oblong fruit when ripe that resembles some type of squash. inside are some slimy, white seeds which the local children eat as candy. Its very sweet, but tastes nothing like chocoate. You suck off the slime and spit out the seeds. Chocolate is made from the dried, cooked and ground seeds. After class on Sunday we hiked to a small waterfall and pool in the jungle where we swam and dived from the surrounding rocks. It was so beautful and the water very cool and clean. It felt so good after the hot, sweaty hike. We returned to our cabanas in intertubes tied together to form a raft and floated downstream through some rapids, very fun. The following day we hiked to a large waterfall and climbed up the rocks through a series of waterfalls. It was a little scary in some spots but very fun. We hiked up a steep ridge through some pretty thick jungle and from the top there were some incredible views of the forest below, and we were able to swing on vines like Tarzan. It was a pretty good workout and we all returned to camp very tired, sweaty and dirty. We had just enough time to shower and pack before we left for our next camp. We piled into some trucks and drove for about 2 hours arriving very tired and hungry at Shangrila, the name of the 2nd set of cabanas.
Since it was dark when we arrived, I was surprised to walk out of my cabana the next morning and see an amazing view below. Shangrila is perched on top of a high hill overlooking the river and valley below. There is nothing but jungle and river below with hills and mountains in the distance. Not a house or building in site for miles and miles (you can see the pictures in the filmstrip to the right). Its not as remote or rustic as the first camp, it has electricity and hot water, but I liked this place a lot. There were several parrots and a pet Cochachi, a racoon-like animal named Pepe. He had a strong smell and sharp claws and was quite a little brat. There were also some small monkeys, not much bigger than a squirrel. They made a lot of noise at night rummaging through the kitchen for food and climbing around on the roofs of the cabins. After class the first day we drove up river and rafted downstream for a few hours to an indigenous village where we sampled some Chicha a typical drink made from yucca, and brought candy and presents for the children. I really wish I had brought my camera because the kids were so cute. We had a tour of the village and learned about the life of the local indians, very interesting. We then continued rafting downstream, jumping off the raft from time to time to swim in the river, until we reaching Shangrila. The 2nd day we hiked to some canyons in the jungle where we walked, crawled and squeezed our way through a series of canyons, many of which were filled with bats. This was the only activity I really didn't care for as I am slightly clausterphobic, and the feeling of crawling through a small, dark, crack with bats flying past my head and the smell of bat urine in the air gave me the creeps. At one point I was behind a large girl who was stuck and couldn't move, with other people pressing up behind me and bats flying past us. The guide has to pull her up as I pushed from behind to get her through. yikes! Our final day we didn't have class and went on a day long trip up river in canoes to a museum and zoo. We also toured another village where we watched a woman make traditional pottery, and then returned in canoes to a bus that was waiting to bring us back to shangrila. We had a party our last night with dancing and drinking of a local sugar cane liqour. It was a lot of fun. Our last morning we got up early, leaving at 5 am to avoid road blocks due to student protests. All in all, it was an excellent trip other than a few dozen mosquito bites, but I was happy to return to civilization for a real shower, shave and clean clothes.
Sunday, 5-25-03 - Volcan Cotopaxi
Its 2:30 am and I can't sleep so I may as well update my journal. I've been pretty tired lately, sleeping an average of 10+ hours a night but waking up a lot in the middle of the night. I think the burnout factor of more than 4 mos. of long, intense days of Spanish has a lot to do with it. I am glad that I won't have any more weeks of 'Intensiva', which should help. Sometimes the days just seem to blur together. School is pretty engrossing and I don't have a whole lot of time or energy to do much else sometimes. I found out that the other students are pretty wiped out as well, so at least I know its just not me. Not much has been going on lately with the exception of the arrival this week of a big group of university students from Wisconson. There are now 45 students in school which feels a lot differant especially after the month of April when I was the only student in school.
Yesterday I went hiking with some of the other students at Mt. Cotapaxi. Its Ecuadors 2nd highest mountain at 5897 meters or 19,347 ft. and one of the highest active volcanoes in the world. It wasn't a really clear day, so we couldn't see the mountain until we drove up to the parking area which was above the clouds. Even then it was only partly visible as groups of high clouds drifted by the summit from time to time. We climbed up to the base camp, only about a mile or so, but it took quite a while and was pretty difficult as I could really feel the effects of the altitude. The camp is at 4800 meters, about 15,740 ft. which is higher than the summit Mt. Rainer (14,410). I don't have much interest in climbing to the summit, the base camp was enough for me. We met a group of Ecuadorian school kids who wanted to practice their English with us. At first I persecuted them by telling them I was Japanese and didn't speak any English, but for some reason they didn't beleive me. We all climbed down together while they asked a thousand questions about the U.S., music and words in English. They were very freindly and a lot of fun.
Today I am having a relaxing Sunday. Spent the morning doing my homework like a good little student and updating the website. I went to a cafe in Gringolandia this afternoon with my host parents. It was a nice day so we walked there to have cappaccinos and dessert. Its owned by a canadian guy and is just like a regular coffee shop in Seattle which is so nice after drinking the instant stuff most Ecuadorians drink. My host mom Juana makes pretty good coffee. She buys the beans in a roasteria in the old town and its pretty good, but I really miss the coffee back home. Its strange that its so hard to get a decent cup of coffee in a country that grows the stuff.
Sunday, 5-11-03 - Mothers Day
Today is mothers day, "Happy mothers day mom!" I took my host family out to dinner at TGI Fridays which my host mom has been wanting to try for quite a while. The food was pretty good, nothing spectacular, but they all enjoyed it. For them eating there was an exotic culinary experience in American culture. They were surprised to hear that I had never been there before as they thought it was a very popular American restaurant that all Americans love. I am not sure if they wanted
to go there because they thought I would like it or if they really wanted to try but I was just glad they enjoyed it.
This week 2 more students arrived, Vicki from Colorado and Jerry from L.A., both
Rotary scholars. Its nice having other students around. Thursday we all went
to the "Secret Garden" for dinner. It was nice to relax and forget about school
for the evening. After 3 weeks of "Intesiva" - 7 hours a day in the classroom, I had a much needed week of "Activa" - mornings in the classroom and afternoons out
in the city. This week I visited several museums and sites around town, all which fit nicely into what I am
studying for the next few weeks, history and culture of Ecuador. Both museums had
lots of exhibits and artwork from pre-Inca artifacts up to present day artists. I
also finally visited the "Panecillo" a hill just south of the old town which has
a large statue of the virgen of Quito, a gift to the city of Quito from France, much like the statue of Liberty was a gift to NY. When they built the park on top of the Panecillo they discovered an old pre-Inca stone structure thought to be either an alter for human sacrifice or an observatory. It was buried under ground and in amazingly good shape. Saturday I went back to the market in Otavalo and Cotacachi, known for its leather goods. I was amazed to find a leather jacket in Cotacachi that fits me like a glove, and it only cost $75! I also bought a leather computer bag for my laptop and a lot of gifts in Otavalo. The people in the market kept trying to sell me sweaters, but of course they were all way too small. It was funny seeng the looks on their faces when they would insist they had one in my size and when I tried it on the sleeves came down to my forearms.
Sunday, 5-4-03
The last few weeks have gone by pretty fast and have been pretty uneventful.
I've been busy with school, studying Latin American Literature and Spanish
Linguistics. 4 months of studying 7 hours a day is taking its toll. This
past week was especially hard, as I have been feeling pretty burned out.
I decided to spend this weekend just relaxing. Saturday I spent updating
my site, finally adding a Guestbook which I
was able to finish thanks to the help of Sara and Bill, Thanks guys! Now
all of you can add comments and say hello. Sunday I went to the "Cima
de la Libertad" the site of a famous battle for the Independence
of Ecuador. It is up on a hill overlooking the city with great views of
the whole valley below. There is a military museum and a large tile mural
depicting Ecuadors struggle for independence. Afterwards I went down into
the old town and spent the rest of the day walking around taking pictures.
The last few weekends I've spent doing homework, studying and re-designing
the schools website. I finished with the designs this week and now Virginia,
the director just needs to make a decision as to which one. The hardest
part is over and the actual building of the site will be easy. I am not
getting paid, but will get a few weeks of studying at both the beach and
in "Mindo". ( a place out in the country a few hours north of
Quito). Both places are pretty remote and will be very quiet and relaxing
and will be a nice change of scenery.
The big item in the news here has been a priest who was the head of a
government import company and was discovered to be stealing millions of
dollars. He is in hiding somewhere in the U.S., probobly in one of his houses
in Miami. He drove a rolls
royce and lived in a huge mansion which contained everything from gold
plated china to video tapes of pornography. The Catholic Church has been
under a lot of criticism for this as well as the government of the ex
president. The new president Guitierrez has formed an anti-corruption
commitee to try and uncover such actions, but no one takes it seriously
and most people doubt that it wil make any difference. Corruption seems to be a way
of life here. Everyday there are stories in the news about some form of
it at all levels of society. Is very sad because the people just look
at it as a fact of life, something that is inevitable and which they are
unabe to do anything about. Out in the country in many indigenous communities, there is such disatisfaction with the police and justice system, that people often
take the law into their own hands. A few weeks ago there was an incident where a
man had been arrested for raping several young girls. When the community found out that the police were going to release him (probobly because he paid them a bribe)
the people were furious and the whole town stormed the police station, dragging
the man into the street, beating him and finally pouring gasoline over him and burning him to death.
Its been strange being the only student in school this past month, but
this week there are 3 new students. Brad and Laura, a married couple from
Colorado and Danielle from Switzerland. Its nice to have other students
to talk to and eat lunch with. This week there should be 2 more arriving
and in the next few weeks a large group of college students arriving.
Saturday, 4-19-03 - Semana Santa
Being as it is Easter or "Semana Santa" as its called
here, its a 3-day holiday and most people left town for the weekend. Many
stores and businesses are closed and its very quiet and peaceful. We had a lot
of rain here this week with thunder and lightening storms in the afternoons. Because of all the rain and
lack of traffic, the air is really fresh and clean. When I woke up Friday
morning the sun was out with clear blue skies and all the volcanoes were
visible, so I went out to take some pictures from a nearby park called "Parque
de la mujer" (Park of the woman). It has a great view of the surrounding
mountains when its clear, a rare site because of the smog and clouds.
I could see "Cotapaxi" to the south, "Pichincha and Guaqua
Pichincha" to the west (directly behind my house), "Sangay" to
the east and even view "Cayambe" to the north, which is usually
coverd with clouds. It was so beautiful, the air a little crisp, but warm
in the sun.
My host mother Juana prepared a traditional holiday dish called "Fanesca",
a type of stew made with over 14 different ingredients such as beans,
lentils, corn and peanuts. Usually they put fish in it, but thankfully
Juana left it out for me (whew!). Its very labor intensive and can take
several days to prepare as all the beans need to be peeled and soaked
and the corn removed from the cob (no, they don't use canned or frozen corn).
She even removed the outer part of the kernal from all the corn to make it smoother. It was very good, but personally I don't think it was worth
all the hassle of preparing it. I wonder if they have and instant version,
or if the McDonalds in Ecuador have McFanesca??? (joking). After lunch
I went to the old part of town to watch the annual Semana Santa procession which starts
from one of the oldest churches in Quito called San Francisco. They take
the statue of the virgen Mary from the church and carry her
through the streets of Quito in a long procession. There are also people
dressed as christ, complete with crowns of thorns, sometimes draped in barbed wire and dripping with real blood, carrying
huge wooden crosses. Some of the crosses were so big it took several people
to carry them. There were also large groups of people dressed in purple
smocks and hoods, who resemble Klu-Klux Clan members, walking in the procession
as a form of pennance for their sins. Others walk barefoot and bare chested,
flailing themselves with palm fronds. I think that all the people who
didn't leave Quito for the weekend were here, crowding the streets lining
the procession. It was difficult to get close to take pictures, but I
was able to get a few. It was very interesting to see.
Friday, 4-11-03
Today I saw a Swedish movie called "Under Solen" (Under the
Sun). It was good practice for my language skills as the movie was in
Swedish with Spanish subtitles. There were only a few parts that I didn't
really understand, but for the most part I was able to figure out what
was going on. It is strange in school this week since I am the only student.
The whole place seems so quiet. I had Sila as my professor this week who
is the head teacher at the school. I've heard from other students that
she is pretty tough, a stickler for grammar and pronunciation and is constantly
correcting your errors which can be pretty frustrating sometimes. But
we got along fine and she didn't correct me as much as I expected. Maybe
my Spanish has reached a new level, I don't know. I still make a lot of
mistakes but I think its improving.
Thursday I went to the Secret Garden to meet with the owner Tarquin and
help him out with his webpage. He was very greatful and gave me a free
dinner and drinks out of the deal. Its always nice to go and hang out
there as there is always a new group of travellers from all over staying
there. This week there was a cop from London who was so hillarious. The
whole group was laughing their asses off during dinner. It rained cats
and dogs that night. The terrace of the hotel where the restaurant is
is only covered by a tent awning. It was raining so hard that we had to
keep emptying the pools that would form on top of the awning so it wouldn't
collapse. It was cool sitting under the tarp listening to the rain, drinking
wine and watching the thunder and lightening. This place has become my
weekly escape and I always look forward to it.
This week I contacted the director of a school I visited last month to
talk about doing some volunteer work there. Its an experimental school
caled I.N.E.P.E. (Instituto Nacional de Educacion del Ecuador). Its in
the south of Quito in a really poor neighborhood but the school is totally
amazing. Usually, the poor areas have really bad education systems because
they receive very little money from the government. No books, equipment,
poor facilities, overloaded classes, etc. This school recieves money from
several organizations in Europe and Canada and is an amazing success story.
It has about 600 students, from age 3 to 18 yrs. Usually 2 classes per
grade of approx. 20 students. This year 5 graduates of this school recieved
scholarships to enter "La Catolica" - the most exclusive university
in Ecuador which is a really hard school to get into, and usually only
the wealthiest students in the country can attend. Before now, its been
unheard of for a student from a poor school to get in. Pretty amazing.
I visited the school last month with another Rotary student to look
into the possability of volunteering here. We met with the director of
the school and he gave us a tour and introduced us to several classes
of students. He is very excited to have us work with him and we talked
about trying to set up some sort of volunteer program through our language
school since so many rotary scholars go there. I will prob. teach English
and/or /basic computer skills as well as possibly create a webpage for
them. I think it would be a great experience, but I still need to work
out the logistics, as its pretty far, about an hour and a half away.
Monday, 4-7-03 - Manta
This weekend I finally made it to the beach. I went to a place called
"Manta" about 9 hours by bus from Quito, but luckily for my back
I flew which was more expensive but much faster, only 30 min. It was nice to get
out of the city for the weekend and just relax. The beach itself was a
bit of a dissapointment, I was hoping it to be more like the
beaches in Costa Rica, but not quite. It was much more expensive
than I had anticipated; $30 a night at the hotel "Manta Imperial"
which was nothing special. The location was nice, right off a beach called Playa Murciélago,
but the place was kind of a dump. I looked into some other hotels nearby,
but all were pretty much the same unless I went to the other end of town,
near a beach called Tarqui which isn't nearly as nice. Its cheaper there, but the beach is littered
with garbage and oil from the fishing boats, and much smaller and crowded,
so I deciced to just stay where I was. It felt so hot after being
in Quito which has been pretty cool and rainy all week. I spent a lot
of time in the water, way too hot to just lay on the beach and fry. It felt so
nice to just float and swim in the warm ocean water. I managed to make it through
the weekend without getting fried. I was pretty careful, slathering myself with
spf 15 sunscreen and even managed to get a little color on my pasty white skin.
It was nice but I don't think I'll come back here. There were a lot of vendors on the
beach selling all kinds of crap which made it hard to relax. I hear
the beaches to the south are much nicer. I'd like to take a week and rent
a car and drive down the coast on a road called "La ruta del sol"
or 'route of the sun' where there are much more secluded and pristine
beaches.
Friday, 3-20-03
This week was pretty busy and went by really fast. Wednesday was Alex's
17th birthday and the school threw him a little party which was a nice
escape from studying. That night Ryan and I took him out to celebrate
at the Secret Garden with dinner and lots of beer. It was a great night.
That place is always filled with interesting people and I always enjoy
going there. The next day I went to a retirement home with my teacher
Laura, Alex and his teacher Maria Elena. We took them some groceries and
had a tour of the facilities. It is run by some nuns completly by donations,
mostly from a foundation in Spain. It was good to see a place like this
exists to take care of older people who are abandoned by their families
or all alone living in the street. But it was also a ltitle depressing.
They are always looking for volunteers to help out, but I am not sure
I can volunteer in a place like that. Both Alex and I felt so bummed out
when we left. I am just not sure I can go there several times a week.
I will have to think about it.
The thing on everyones mind this week has been the war with Iraq. The
papers are full of it, and Ecuadorians are curious to know our opinions
on it. They are concerned but not hostile toward Americans. There have
been big demonstrations at the U.S. embassy all week. A mix of students,
clergy and other people; Ecuadorians, Americans and Europeans. Its been
pretty peaceful so far, but there were armoured troop carriers out front
of the embassy yesterday, marines at the gates and Ecuadorian police out
front. Its very sad for everyone. The war doesn't just effect the innocent
people who will die in Iraq, it has effects all over the world. Ecuadorians
are concerned about their economy as there has already been a decrease
in tourism from the U.S. since 9-11 and with the war, there will certainly
be less and less Americans travelling becuase of the fear of terrorism.
I heard from my teacher that there will only be 2 students in school the
month of April, myself and Tonio. I think this has more to do with the
fact that it's typically a slow time of year for the school, but I think
the war only adds to it. The teachers are concerned because if they don't
have students, they don't get paid. I talked with Virginia, the director
of the school last week about redesigning the school's website. It definetly
needs it. I think that if I redesign and update it, adding some more relevant
info. and registering it with search engines it may bring some mroe business.
Its amazing how many people use the Internet to find out information on
everything, including language schools. Right now the school site is kind
of hard to find, so it may help to attract new students. I won't get paid,
but can get a free week to the beach which would be nice.
Today was the Spring Equinox and there was a celebration at the Equator.
I went with Ryan and our teachers as our "actividad" for the
day. There were dancers from all over South America and a prayer for peace.
Since it was the equinox, the sun was directly above us, so our shadows
were completely vertical. We also did some experiments such as balancing
an egg on a nail, which is much easier on the equator because the center
of gravity is directly vertical, and placing a leaf in a bucket of water
and watching it drain from a hole. On the equator the water drains straight
down, when you move the bucket a few yards to the north the water drains
in a clockwise motion and drains counter-clockwise when you move it a
few yards to the south (or vice-versa, I can't remember which). Pretty
interesting.
Sunday, 3-16-03 - Cuenca
This weekend Alex and I went to an old colonial city called Cuenca. Its
about a 10-hour bus ride from Quito or a half-hour flight. We opted to
fly as it would save us both time and sore backs. Cuenca is the 3rd largest
city in Ecuador and known as its prettiest. It was cut off from the rest
of the country for hundreds of years because of its remote location and
thesurrounding rugged landscape. Because of this, it has retained its
colonial feel with cobblestone streets, whitewashed buildings and old
churches dating back to the 17th century. The city had a great feel to
it. Quiet, clean air, relatively litter free streets and very freindly
people. they have a very different accent here, it almost sounds as if
they are singing when they speak. It has a nice sound and is easy to understand.
Everywhere we went people would say "Hi" and "Hello"
to us in English. We felt like movie stars. Lots of girls staring and
flirting with us. We were in an Italinan restaurant Saturday night when
a group of girls asked to take their picture with us. It was very flattering
and Alex was in heaven. All weekend people were staring and smiling at
us.
We stayed in a great hotel called "Hostal Macando" in the middle
of the old town. It had comfortable beds, a decent breakfast and great
showers. It was an old building with creaky wood floors and several indoor
courtyards, very nice. We did a lot of walking around and getting lost
as most of the streets all looked alike. People were quick to help us
when we pulled out the map, but we still had a hard time figuring out
where things were. The main square in the center of town is very cool.
It is full of trees and flowers and very clean. Surrounding it are beautiful
old colonial buildings and 2 churches, the old church and the new cathedral.
The cathedral is one of the prettiest I've seen in Ecuador. It has several
blue domes with stained glass windows and lots of marble. Sunday they
close the streets surrounding the square and its full of people. Behind
the cathedral is a large market where people come into town from the countryside
to sell produce, clothing and art. A few blocks south of the main plaza
is the Rio Tomebamba which is lined with old colonial buildings and you
can see locals washing their clothes in the river and laying them to dry
on the banks. There is a greenbelt bordering the river with nice sidewalks
and lots of trees and grass. Following the river east leads to some old
Inca ruins, about a block up the hill and surrounded by a fence. They
were closed, but since the wall was pretty low, we climbed over to take
some pictures. Not long after we noticed a policeman walking down the
hill so we decided it was probobly best to split before he got there.
I ended up crushing the LCD screen on my camera while hopping the fence,
damn! I guess it was the price to pay for angering the Inca gods. At least
the camera itself isn't damaged and I can still take pictures fine, I
just can't see them afterwards or change any of the settings. Hopefully
it won't be too expensive to fix once I get home.
Cuenca is a great quiet little city. Things seemed cheaper here than
Quito, and it had great restaurants and lots of ice cream and coffee shops.
Its definetly not a party town. We went to a German bar Friday night called
Wunderbar, which had strong drinks and some local music, but it wasn't
very hopping. We ended up seeing 3 different movies, one a day; Frida,
Kandahar, and a Sandra Bullock film. It was a pretty relaxing weekend
and a nice escape from Quito.
Friday, 2-21-03 - Punte del Este, Uruguay
Since Mike left a little early, I decided to go check out the beaches
in Uruguay. I got a pretty good deal on a package to a resort town on
the coast north of Montevideo called "Punte del Este". Its where
all the wealthy Argentines go for they're summer vacation. Very touristy
with lots of posh high rise hotels and restaurants. Since it was the end
of the tourist season it wasn't crowded at all. The trip getting here
was a little longer than I expected. It took nearly all day, about 6 hours.
3 hours in hydrofoyle crossing the Rio de la Plata to Montevideo and another
3 hours by bus north. I wish I had another few days to spend here. If
I had known it was this far from Buenos Aires I would have given myself
at least one more day. My hotel was pretty nice and inclduded a great
breakfast. I was pretty tired after getting here and immediately went
down to the beach and just sat with my feet in the water looking out at
the ocean. It feels very safe here. There are a lot of cops, and its the
type of place that no one really lives. Just people working in the tourist
industry. Although its a bit touristy, its still really nice to just be
somewhere quiet with lots of fresh ocean air and sunshine. I had a great
dinner at an Italian place where I was the only person in the place. I
ended up hanging out and talking to the owner and his wife, both Argentines
who own the restaurant. They were really nice and even offered to take
me sightseeing the next day. As I really only had one day to hang at the
beach I declined, but it was still nice of them. I spent the whole day
at the beach and got a little burned, but not too bad. It was great just
laying in the sun relaxing and reading. That evening it cooled off and
there was a huge thunder storm, and it rained buckets. This morning it
was bright and sunny again, but as I was a little toasted from yesterday
I decided to stay off the beach and sightsee around town instead. Movies
are cheap here too, even cheaper than Argentina. I saw "The Hours"
and an Argentine movie called "Kamchatka" which was kind of
hard to understand, but I got the jist of it. The Argentines accents are
so strong, it sounds like a completely differant language.
I got back to Buenos Aires late after a long day of travelling. The boat
from Montevideo was packed, and the river a little rough. I couldn't wait
to get off of it. I got back to Sonia's place around 8, and after packing
my bags went to dinner with her and Martin at a little Italian place close
by. I have to get up at 2 am to catch my flight back to Quito, so I probobly
won't sleep much tonight. I am feeling pretty tired after my 2 week vacation
through Chile, Argentina and Uruguay and ready to return back to my routine
in Quito.
Tuesday, 2-18-03 - Buenos Aires
Mike and I arrived Buenos Aires last Saturday and have been staying with
Sonia, an Argentine friend who used to live in Seattle. It had been over
10 years since we have seen her, and it was great seeing her after so
long. She hadn't changed much at all, except that now she has a 4-year
old son, Martin, who is quite a character. Sonia has been a great host,
driving us all over Bueanos Aires, showing us all the sights. She lives
in a huge penthouse apartment right in the middle of town, with great
views of the city and above all the traffic noise. There are a lot of
great restaurants in BA and we have been eating some great meals; lots
of Italian and of course, Argentine steak. The Argentines don't eat dinner
until around 10 pm, which is hard to get used to. They usually eat a light
breakfast, lunch, tea around 5 which consists of coffee or tea, sandwhiches
and snacks, and then a late dinner. We have also been eating a lot of
"alfahores" - a type of cookie, or 2 cookies covered in chocolate
with a carmel filling. They are really good and I've been eating a lot
of them. Another great thing about Argentina is the coffee. Its the best
coffee I've had since leaving Seattle. There are little cafes everywhere,
all serving Italian style espresso.
Bueanos Aires is a lot different from the other Latin American cities
I've been to. Its much more European, with wide boulevards, ornate architecture
and lots of plazas filled with big statues including one of Evita Perone.
Of course I had to take a picture of Homey standing in front of it to
send to Florentino. This city is also so huge! We have spent the last
few days seeing most of the tourist spots such as the Plaza de Mayo and
the Casa Rosada, Argentinas version of the White House, or in their case,
the Pink House. We also took a day trip across the Rio de la Plata to
Uruguay to visit an old Portuguese colonial town called "Colonia".
The river is supposedly the widest river in the world, and I don't doubt
it. When we first arrived in Buenos Aires I thought it was the ocean becuase
its so wide. You can't see across it and it takes 2 hours in hydrophoyle
to cross it. Colonia was interesting, but it was a long day, and there
really wasn't that much to do there. The next day we spent walking all
over Buanos Aires, which was good becuase of all the alfahores we've been
eating. We went shopping for cheap leather goods, but didn't find anything.
It doesn't seem as cheap as everyone kept telling me before coming here.
Still, because of the decline of the Argentine peso, many things are pretty
cheap. Movies are only about $2, and we saw several while here. Food aslo
seems pretty cheap. We have been eating out at some pretty nice restaurants
and paying about half of what we would pay back home.
Thursday, 2-13-03 - Bariloche, Argentina
Today we we left Chile for Argentina, arriving by a combination of boats
and buses through several lakes in the Andies. It was an amazing trip,
and we really lucked out with the weather. It was a beautiful day with
clear blue skies and lots of sunshine. It was a long day, we left the
Cocomo valley in Chile at 10 am arrived in Bariloche, Argentina at 10
pm. The trip began at the National Park in Petrohue Chile, in the shadow
of Volcan Osorno, a beautiful snow capped mountain, where we took a boat
across "Lago Todos los Santos" a deep, turquoise lake surrounded by tree
covered hills and snow capped volcanos. We then took a bus to another
lake where we caught another boat for a short trip before catching another
bus to cross the Chilean-Argentine border to catch another boat on Lago
Nahuel-Huapi for the final leg of the trip. We arrived in Bariloche tired,
hungry and a little cranky after spending over an hour searching for a
hotel. Everything was full since it is the height of tourist season. We
finally managed to find a room for one night in a pricey hotel, but the
next day found a much better place just around the corner.
Bariloche is a great little town, very pretty and really clean. Its on
the shore of Lake Nahuel Huapi and in the middle of a huge national park
by the same name. Its a big vacation spot for many Argenintes who come
here to ski in the winter and for hiking, boating, or relaxing in the
summer. It has a big German influence with a lot of the buildings in town
made from stone and wood, lookng very Bavarian. It also has a lot of chocolate
shops. There are almost as many chocolate shops here as coffee shops in
Seattle. Mike and I were both in heavan going around sampling the different
types of chocolate. We decided to just hang out here and relax for a few
days before heading to Buenos Aires on Saturday.
Wednesday, 22-12-03 - Campo Aventura, Chile
The last few days we have been staying at an eco-lodge in the Cochamo Valley
(coach-a-moe) called
Campo Aventura where there is hiking,
kayaking and horseback riding. They specialize in 3 or 4 day horseback trips
up into the Andies, but we don't have that much time, so were just going for
a day trip instead and also do a little hiking. We were only here
for 2 nights and 3 days before heading to Argentina.
With the current economic situation, Argentina should be
much cheaper, so were holding off spending a lot of money until we get there.
This place is so cool! Rustic little wooden cabins without electricity,
phone or TV. It is so quiet, only the sound of the river, birds and the
neighing of the horses. At night the stars are amazing. The food is also
pretty good. Very healthy and so far great with the exception of dinner
the first night (at least for me, everyone else loved it). Wouldn't you
know, they served salmon lasagna. Just my luck (blech!). The chef was
very apologetic for not asking us beforehand if we had any food preferences
and she whipped me up some pasta. It was so cool, eating by candlight,
looking out at the stars and drinking lots of Chilean wine. It was heaven
(except for the salmon) and very relaxing.
The horseback trip up into the mountains was a blast, but my butt is happy that
we only decided to do the day trip. I can't imagine what it would be like after
3 days, yikes! Some of the terrain was pretty rough, and crossing the river on
horseback made me a little nervous, but it was also pretty exciting. We started
out with the others who were doing the 3 day trip up to the high camp in the
mountains which is supposed to be even nicer than the camp were staying at. Mike
plans to come back next year and do the that trip. We said goodbye to the others
after lunch and headed back down into the valley.
Monday, 2-10-03
Tonight for dinner Mike and I went to a German place called "Cafe Weiss"
where we met the most interesting woman. One of the best things about
travelling is the people you meet. This woman, Suzie from Melbourne was
quite a trip. It was hard to tell how old she was. She looked like the kind
of woman who had a lot of money and who has probobly had a few face lifts in
her day. She was quite a character, like somone out of a fiction novel. Blonde,
thin, in a tight fitting body suit that resembled a ski outfit, big rhinestone
sunglasses and lots of makeup. she was the type of woman who is accustomed to a
certain level of
service and has travelled all over the world staying in the best hotels and eating
in the best restaurants. she didn't speak a word of spanish, and she thought that
by speaking really loud she could make herself understood. It was pretty amusing
watching her explain to the waiter exactly what she wanted and how she wanted it
prepared. She wanted him to show her the meat and asked detailed questions about
how it was going to be prepared.
She sat at the table next to us and immediately
struck up a conversation. She was evidently traveling as part of an organized
tour but had escaped for the night to dine out on her own away from her fellow
tourists. She was very talkative and interested in knowing everything about us,
why we were here and our hear our opinions on everthing from Chile to Iraq.
After dinner she wanted to know if this town was "hopping", and if there were
any really fun bars. I was kind of curious to hear her definition of what a
"fun bar" was, but she kept looking at me the way a hungry little fat kid
looks at a cookie jar, which kind of scared me. Mike wanted to
make a run for it while she was in the restroom, but no such luck. We
told her that we were getting up early and were not going out to party. She
tried to talk us into going out with her, but she was just a little too strange
for us. I kind of felt sorry for her, but not enough to spend an evening partying
with her. She really was something.
Sunday, 2-9-03 - Puerto Varas, Chile
I arrived in Chile the day before yesterday after a long night flight;
4.5 hours from Quito to Santiago, a 2 hour layover and another 2 hours
to Puerto Montt. Homey met me at the airport and we left for a town
about half and hour north called Puerto Varas. I am glad he decided
to get a place there rather than Puerto Montt. Its a small town on the
shores of a beautiful lake called "Llanquihue" (yonkee-way) with 2 snow
capped mountains in the background. It reminds me so much of the northwest.
Mountains, lakes, thick evergreen forests and lots of clean air. The people
in Chile are very friendly, but their Spanish is very differant form the
Spanish in Ecuador. They speak really fast with an unusual accent and use a
lot of slang. The first time I heard it at the airport in Santiago I thought
the woman was speaking Portuguese or Italian. Im getting a little more used
to it now, but its still pretty hard when they talk fast. Were staying at a
small hostal called "Compas del Sur", owned by a young Chilean guy and his
Swedish wife. I didn't expect to be speaking Swedish in Chile, very cool.
The place is only $10 a night, very clean and includes an awesome breakfast
for $2 more. Very Swedish; Muesli, yogurt and fruit with toast, cheese and
ham and of course lots of coffee.
The thing I really like about staying in hostals are the people you meet.
We met Jen, a girl from Texas who has been living in London the past 6
yrs. and who has just decided to take a year off to travel through South
America. She was part of a group of outdoor enthusiasts who started out in
Quito and travalled by bus through Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina, all
the way down to Tierra del Fuego, doing a lot of hiking, climbing, rafting
and kayaking. They alternated staying in hotels and camping during their
3-month trip. After the trip ended in Tierra del Fuego, Jen decided to travel
through the lakes district solo and ended up at our hostal. It was great
hearing about her adventures. Made me wish I had met Mike in Punta Arenas,
in the far south of Chile instead of Puerto Montt. Oh well, I only have so
much time. Jen went to dinner with us at a swanky restaurant, supposedly one
of the best in Chile. Its known for its seafood, esp. salmon which I hate, so
my judgement was a little clouded. Still, it was a pretty good dinner (I had
pasta not fish) and we drank a lot of good Chilean wine. The wine here is so cheap!
There is a festival going on here right now. Every night there is a stage set
up in the town square with music and dancing. People dressed as Gauchos and
Senoritas doing a hankercheif dance. The best part was the little kids
who did the same dances. There is a big German influence here, so there
were also Bavarian style dances and music, with lots of beer.
Yesterday Mike and I decided to take advantage of the rental car and drive
out to the island of Chiloe (chill-oh-way), SW of Puerto Montt. We took a
small ferry and spent the day exploring the island. Its a pretty big island with
several good sized towns and a huge national park. It was so beatiful out
there, with very friendly people.
Today we dropped off the rental car and walked around Puerto Montt. Not much
to see really, and since it was Sunday most everything was closed. It was kind of
a cloudy, windy day, and we just wanted to get back to Puerto Varas. We did
mangage to find a great internet cafe with the fastest connection I've
experienced since leaving Seattle. Gotta love that! When we got back to
Puerto Varas the sun came out and it turned out to be another beautiful day.
We spent the day walking around town and taking relaxing, before heading out to
another great dinner tonight with lots more red wine.
Monday, 2-3-03
This weekend started out with a dinner Friday night at the home of one
of the teachers at school, Maria Elena. She invited all the students to
her house for dinner but only Trish, Ian and I went along with a few of
the other teachers. Maria Elena made a great meal and it was a nice way
to unwind after a busy week. Saturday morning I met Ryan, Trish, Ian and
Alex bright and early to catch a bus for a town called "Baños". Its about
a 3 and a half hour bus ride south of Quito. The trip started out with Alex
getting his wallet stolen at the bus station. Someone must have picked his
pocket while we were going through the turnstyle to the bus. He didnt feel
a thing. Just goes to show you how good those asses are at robbing you. Luckily
he only lost $10 and his cash card which he cancelled once we got to Baños.
The town is at the base of
a volcano called "Tunjurahua" and is known for its hotsprings where people
go to soak in the pools, hence the name "Baños". It was a cloudy day so
we weren't able to see the volcanos on the bus, but we were all excited
to get out of the city for the weekend. The town had more gringos than
I've seen in the last 3 weeks in Quito, a bit touristy, but a nice little
town. It is surrounded by large mountains covered in green with several
waterfalls. We stayed at "Hotel Plantas Y Blanco" which was
only $7 a night and had awesome showers and a pretty good breakfast. The
only drawback was the propane refilling sation next door which opened
at 6:00 am with big trucks unloading gas canisters with lots of banging
that made it impossible to sleep in. Oh well, the showers made up for
it. Saturday we hiked up a river to a waterfall surronded by steep, mountains,
very beatiful and a lot of fun. We then went out for a great dinner and
then to some bars in search of girls for Alex. Suday morning Alex, Ian
and I rented mountain bikes for a ride to "Puyo". It was the
highlight of the trip, at least for me. The road was pretty narley in
some spots. Basically a dirt road with rocks, potholes, and mud in some
places. There were 2 tunnels which were a little scary when entering at
nearly 30 mph down a hill into pitch darkness. The first tunnel you could
at least see the light at the other end, but the 2nd tunnel had a curve,
and it was nearly pitch black. I could feel water dripping on me from
above and splashing up from the road and I kept thinking that if there
was a rock or pothole in front of me, I was going to bite it. Luckily
that didn't happen. Parts of the road were covered with puddles and thick
mud and we were covered in it by the end of the ride, which was half the
fun. The ride was beautiful, along steep mountain sides that followed
the river below. There were numerous waterfalls and the views were incredible.
At one point the road was washed out and we had to wait for a tractor
to clear a path. Pretty fun. We made it to a small town called San Francisco
in about 3 and half hours and decided to catch a bus back to Baños before
it got too late. When we got on the bus everyone turned to stare at us.
We must have been qute a site, 3 tall, blonde, gringos covered with mud.
I should have taken a picture. The bus ride back was more harrowing than
the bike ride. At one point another bus was travelling the opposite direction
and our driver had to back up just inches from the edge of a steep cliff.
Luckily I didn't see it, but the look on Alex's face said it all. Its
amazing those bus drivers can maneuver those buses like that on those
winding little dirt roads. We left around 5:00 pm for long bus ride back
to Quito, where the people were crammed in like sardines. I don't look
forward to a ride any longer than that one, but it was worth it for the
fun we had.
This week is another "intensiva" week where I have 7 hours
of class a day. I much prefer the "activa" week where I go around
to differant places around town and get out of the classroom. But this
is also a short week as I leave for Chile to meet Homey Thursday night.
Also my teacher Carlos told me that we can go see a photography exibit
at a museum one day, which I am all for if it means not sitting in a class
all day. Since I am leaving for Chile this week, this will probobly be
the last time I update the site for a few weeks unless I am able to do
it from the road somewhere. Check back in a week or so. If not, I will
do a big update when I get back to Quito sometime after Feb. 22.
Thursday, 1-30-03
Today I had a lesson in the beurocracy of Ecuador. Because I am staying
here more than 3 mos. I had to apply for a visa before I left Seattle.
With my visa I recieved a letter stating that I had to register with the
office of immigration within my first 30 days in Ecuador. Today my professor
and I went to the immigration office for what seemed like a relatively
easy process. When we arrived there were only a few other people there
and I thought that it would be a relatively quick process. Was I in for
a surprise. I found out that the Ecuadorian Embassy in San Francisco had
sent back all the paperwork I sent them except the proof of registration
at my school. (wouldn't ya know it). So we had to go back across town
to school to get a copy and then return again. When we got back they gave
me another form to fill out stating that I had to pay a $7 registration
fee to the "Banco Internacional" which was also across town.
After standing in line for half an hour at this bank the teller tells
us that they only accept that form before noon. (it was 12:30). God only
knows why.....all she had to do was take my $7 and stamp the form.....so
back to school we went, but on the way passed another banco international
which I decided to try just for the heck of it. There was no one in this
branch, but when we walked in the 3 separate tellers refused to even acknowledge
us. When I walked up to one of the tellers she tells me to wait in line
until they call me. She said this w/out even looking up from painting
her fingernails. Finally another teller motions us over and stamps my
form. But I only had a $10 bill and he didn't have any $1 bills! He was
very annoyed that I didn't have exact change. (excuse me, isn't this a
bank?) he had to get up and go over to another teller to get change and
he was very cranky abot it. Again, this whole process took place w/out
him even looking me in the face. I could hardly believe it. By the time
we got back to the immigration office, they were closed for the day. I
suggest to anyone in a similiar situation to just forget about getting
a visa at all. If you leave the country and return again within the first
3 mos. you don't have to have a visa. Oh well, live and learn.
Yesterday the whole school went on a field trip out into the country
to visit an experimental farm called INIAP (National Institute for investigation
of agriculture products). It was nice to get out of the city and into
the clean, fresh, air. The countryside was beautiful. Green mountains
and farms, and it reminded me a lot of home. We had a tour of the facilities
and learned about how they are studying and preserving various strains
of plants, and experimenting with various production techniques. It was
interesting, but the highlight was when we all piled into the back of
a small pickup truck for a ride down into the valley. It was a lot of
fun and just nice to be out in the countryside.
That night the school was invited to a hotel in old town called "The
Secret Garden". Trish and Ryan had discovered this place the
week before, and last night the owner reserved the place for our school.
Most of the students and teachers showed up for a great traditional Ecuadorian
dinner and Andean folkmusic. The owner is an Austrailian guy who is married
to an Ecuadorian. They have remodeled his mother-in-laws house into a
cool little hotel with a restaurant on the rooftop terrace which has great
views of old town. The whole place has a great atmosphere and I can't
wait to go back next week.
Sunday, 1-26-03
Its been a pretty busy week. Everything from celebrating my birthday
to an armed robbery and protests at the university. Ryan, a fellow student
was robbed last weekend at an Internet cafe near his house. Pretty scary,
and he was understandably shaken up. He had a pretty frustrating week
dealing with the police and American Embassy to get his passport replaced.
Especially difficult because he doesn't feel comfortable with the language
yet. By the time friday rolled around he was ready for a few beers. He,
Trish, Alex and I went out after class on Friday to have dinner and a
few drinks in Gringlolandia. We had a great time which was much needed
after a long week. This week there were also protests at the university
due to the raising of oil prices by the government. Gasoline is subsidized
by the government but the new president Gutierrez, wants to raise gas
prices. This affects the price of everything, as bus and taxi drivers
will have to raise fares, which in turn causes the price of everything
else to go up. At the same time the president has put a salary freeze
for one year on the salaries of government employees. Considering the
average Ecuadorian family only makes about $300-$400 per month this has
devastating effects. Many people make much less than that. Very sad. Because
of this, students have been protesting at the university. Thursday morning
I saw groups of students throwing rocks at police in riot gear who began
throwing rocks back. It was pretty scary, but most of the people here
seem pretty unaffected. My teacher told me that protests happen quite
regularly here and are not usually a danger. Still, its probobly wise
to stay clear if there are rocks flying around. Before you get all freaked
out, remember that this same stuff happens back home everyday. Shit happens,
and in the U.S. there are a lot more armed robberies and murders than
there are here. Most of the crimes here are less serious in nature, stuff
like pick pocketing. My teacher told me that only 2 other students in
the history of the school have been held up. That's pretty good for over
20 years.
Not being accustomed to drinking more than 1 beer, and that's infrequently,
after having 4 beers and a shot of tequila I was feeling a little hungover
saturday morning I met Trish at the Internet cafe as we were going to
go on a hike near the equator. We decided to skip the hike and just go
check out the monument at the equator "mitad del mundo" (middle
of the world). It was pretty interesting, and there were a group of indigenous
musicians and dancers in the plaza. Its about a 45 minute busride from
Quito, which was long enough for me being cramped into a bus with no leg
room. I came home and took a little nap before dinner and heading out
to explore gringolandia. I went to a cool little cafe called "Cafe
Colibri" (Cafe Humingbird). It has pretty good coffee and it has
tables out in a garden with hummingbirds flying around. It wa agreat place
to study, and I sat there for a few hours writing postcards and studying.
I then walked over to the mall and saw "Lord of the Rings" it
was in English with Spanish subtitles which was nice. I made it an early
night as Cesar and Juana wanted to take me to church with them. It was
interesting to witness a typical Catholic Sunday mass, but I don't think
I'll make a habit of it. After breakfast we all walked down to a large
park called "Carolina". Its a huge park packed with people every
Sunday playing soccer, tennis, running, horseback riding and lounging
around. They also have free aerobics which Paola insisted we all do. At
first I thought she was joking, but then Juana and Cesar joined in I had
to give it a try. It totally kicked my butt! I quit halfway through the
hour long session which was lead by a huge instructor called "Chocolate
Caliente" (hot chocolate). He leads a pretty intense hour of aerobics
every Sunday and it was surprising how many people take part. There were
men, women, and children. Young and old. I could really feel the altitude
on my lungs. We then walked all over the park while Paola continuted with
another hour of aerobics. Que loca! We all walked back home and had naps.
I spent the rest of the day doing homework and updating this site for
all of you. Aren't you glad?
Wednesday, 1-22-03
Today is my 40th Birthday. The school threw me a little party
with pizza, cake and lots of wine. It was a beautiful day and we sat around
for most of the afternoon on the terrace on the roof of the school, talking and drinking wine. When
I got home my host mother Juana made me one of my favorite things for dinner, lasagna.
She also made me a home made cake. I felt very honored because we even ate in the
dining room, which is pretty rare. The Ecuadorians rarely use either the living room
or dining room, reserving them for special occasions. All our meals are eaten at the kitchen table and
the only time I've been in the living room was the night I arrived. Mom and dad called right before
dinner which was a nice surprise. I'd like to thank all of you who sent me
birthday email. It was nice to find a folder full of mail this afternon and know that you were thinking of me.
Yesterday I woke up feeling a little strange, and by the time I had arrived at school was feeling pretty crummy.
I think it was the ice in the drink I had for lunch the day before. They warn us about
not drinking water, juice, fruit or ice in restaurants unless we know that they use
purified water. I just didn't think about it at the time but you can bet I won't forget
that again. Nothing serious, just a little achie and tired with an upset stomach and
a little diarrhea. I went home at lunch and Juana made me some tea with chamomille, onion, oregano
and lemon. It didn't taste that great, but it seemed to do the trick. I took a long nap, had a little
dinner and went back to bed. Today I felt good as new. This week I have 7 hours of class a day with the same
teacher, just her and myself.
Its called the 'intensiva' program. My teacher these past
2 weeks has been Maria Elena who is awesome. Still, its hard sitting in the
same room all day long. I much prefer the 'activa' program I had last week where I spend
the afternoons going around town with my instructor visiting various sites. I will
be alternating a week of intensiva and a week of activa my whole time here, Youch! its going to be a long 6 mos.
Oh well, thats what I am here for
right? Near the end of my studies I will also spend a week on the coast and another in the Amazon. From what
I've heard from other students the Amazon week is very cool.
Saturday, 1-18-03
I have been in Ecuador one week today. It’s hard to believe the week is
over already. I've been pretty busy getting settled into life here
in Quito, my school and Ecuadorian Family, Cesar, Juana and Paola. They
have been very hospitable and are making me feel right at home. Juana
is a great cook, and so far everything she has prepared has been excellent.
They live in the "San Gabriel" neighborhood of Quito, which is in the newer
part of town. I only have to walk a block to "Avenida America", one of
the main arterials where I can catch a bus to most anywhere in the city.
There are numerous buses, which will drop me off a few blocks from school,
but I prefer the 25-minute walk. After all of Juana’s good cooking I can
use it. Besides, the buses are very crowded and not built for people of
my height. So far I have been doing pretty well with my Spanish, and haven't
had too many problems speaking or understanding others. My host family
doesn't speak any English, and neither do most of the people here, which
is good for improving my Spanish. The only time I speak English is with
the other American students. It has been an exhausting week and I have
been doing a lot of sleeping. Between adjusting to the altitude, thinking
in another language all day, and all the walking, I fall into bed totally
whooped each night.
Quito is the 2nd highest capital in Latin America, at nearly 10,000 ft. I can definitely feel the altitude. Luckily it hasn't caused me any problems other than a slight headache the first day, and sleeping more than normal. The city is nestled in a long valley, surrounded by the Andes, which gives it some beautiful scenery. The city itself is like many Latin American cities, rather dirty, crowded and loud, but it definitely has its charms. The old part of town is full of Spanish colonial architecture and beautiful old churches. One thing that is hard to get use to is the level of poverty, which we just don't see in the U.S. but the Ecuadorian people are very friendly and hospitable.
I am studying Spanish at "La
Academia de Español", about halfway between my house and the old part of town, in the "Santa Clara" neighborhood. It is an excellent school with great instructors. I have 7 hours of class each day, one-o-one instruction with the same teacher, with a different teacher every 2 weeks. The mornings are spent going over grammar and speaking lots of Spanish. The afternoons we spend going out on different excursions around the city. This week I went to the old part of town, a few museums, the Basilica, and even saw the new Pedro Almodovar movie, "Hable con Ella" (all in Spanish of course, and with no subtitles-yikes!). Right now there are only 5 students total in school. Beside myself there is Ryan - a policeman from North Carolina and also a Rotary scholar, Alex - a high school student from Maryland, Dorothy - an attorney from Berlin, and another Seattlite, Trish - a med student at the UW. We 4 Americans have been hanging out, eating lunch together and going to internet cafes after class. The nice thing about attending a language school like this is that we are all strangers, thrown into the same situation together, and are a sort of ready-made group of friends.
Friday after class, even though I was pretty tired, Trish, Alex and I explored "Gringolandia", a neighborhood where most of the foreigners live, and full of cool restaurants, bars and internet cafes. We had a beer at an English Pub and dinner at a cool restaurant called "Kama Sutra". It was a great way to end my first week. Today we went to "Otavalo" a famous indigenous market that predates Spanish conquest. It was a 2-hour drive in a small cramped car, but we had a good time. There were rows after rows of everything from jewelry and food to pottery, clothing and other textiles. I bought a few things, but mainly just looked around, as I know I will be coming back at some point. After a few hours at the market, Arturo drove us to "Cotocachi" a small town known for its fine leather goods. There were shops full of every imaginable type of leather product. I saw a great leather laptop bag for $48, cheaper than a nylon one back home. I didn't buy it, as I didn't bring enough cash, but I am sure I will go back there at some point in the next 6 mos. After strolling the leather shops in Cotacachi, we went to visit a local indian shaman. Trish volunteered to be purified, which entailed the shaman saying chants in Quichua while spitting alchol all over her body. He then blew cigarette smoke over her while rubbing her with various types of crystals. It was a little strange at first, esp. when he began spitting on her, but all in all it was an interesting experience and Trish had no regrets. After the purification we visited the "Laguna de Cuicocha" Ecuadors version of Crater Lake. After a boat tour of the lake we headed to the first monument at the Equator for some picture taking. It was pretty cool to say I sat on the equator. Well its time to go out for a bit of exercise before the day is over. I am going to the big park "Carolina" to take some pictures and explore before dinner.
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