| Aug 1, 2007 - Appenzell
| (click to enlarge)
 |  | (click to enlarge)
 | | (click to enlarge)
 | | show all 11 | | town hall in Appenzell | | guesthouse Aescher in Ebbenalp | | closer view of guesthouse Aescher | | |
| Happy Switerland Day! Today is Switzerland`s national day, like our 4th of July. I am in Appenzell, in the heart of rural Switzerland. This area is famous for its strong folk traditions, cowbells and stinky cheese. The town itself is very cute, lots of ornately painted wooden houses covered with flower boxes. Since its a national holiday most everything is shut down, buildings are decked out with flags and banners and everyone is in a festive mood. There was a big celebration in the center of town with bbq'd bratwurst, beer, folk dancing and fireworks. There was a group of little kids dressed in traditional costumes doing folk dances, who were very cute. The younger ones were really into it and had a ball, but the kids over 10 just looked embarassed. I am sure they would have much rather been playing video games.
The train ride I took to get here yesterday was gorgeous. The portion from Pontresina to Chur was part of the Bernina Express. I would like to do this entire route sometime as I think it's the best of Switzerland's scenic train routes. Part of this trip even has special topless 2-decked cars, which would be very cool on a day like today. The portion of the route I did didn't have these, so I decided not to pay the extra fee for the special 'Panorama car' with the large, wrap around windows and instead just sat in one of the regular train cars. The Panorama cars sound great, and the majority of tourists I talk to want to ride in one, heck, I did too. But I have to tell you, after riding in a few, I don't think they are all that great. Sure, they are brand-new and modern, with bigger windows so you can see more of the scenery, but they cost more (about 30 SF), are typically pretty crowded (with American and Japanese tourists) and can get pretty warm (like a terrarium). The regular train cars don't cost any more, are less crowded (there was only one other passenger in my car of 36 seats yesterday) and the windows open, so you can get fresh air and take unobstructed pictures without the glare from the glass.
After arriving, I dropped my bag off at my hotel, packed up my daybag with my toothbrush and a clean pair of underwear and immediately caught another train for a nearby mountain-hut inn called 'Ebbenalp'. It's about 20 min. by train to a little town called Wasserauen, where you take a gondola up to the top of a mountain called Ebbenalp. From there, you walk about 15 min. down a narrow trail along the cliff edge, pass through a cave-tunnel, until arriving at the inn, literally perched on the edge of a cliff. The back wall of the inn is the actual cliff face. It has amazing views of surrounding mountains and the valley below. It's usually busy on weekends and pretty quiet during the week, but since today is a holiday, Ebbenalp was packed with locals going up to spend the night. The restaurant there is supposed to have the best Rosti in all of Switzerland (Rosti is a typical dish here, basically really good hashbrowns, often with cheese, egg or sausage). I have to admit, it was pretty damn good. I think I am getting a bit old for the communal thing though. This place only has dorm beds and no hotwater or showers. All the water comes from collected rainwater. Pretty cool, but by the time I left this morning, I was ready for a shower and a room all to myself. The other guests were up partying until 2 in the morning, and needless to say, I didn't get much sleep.
Today is my last official day of researching. I will go to Colmar tomorrow, where I will just relax for 2 days before taking a train on to Paris to start my tour. I wish I could post photos, as some of the pictures from Ebbenalp are pretty nice. I promise I will post all the photos when I get home. |
| |
| |
